Walkers stand in cathedral of wooden fins. Pukatea is tree that learned to swim. Not tallest – kahikatea outgrows it – but most distinctive. Trunk rises straight and tall. Often 25 metres or more. Pale grey bark. Smooth and slightly mottled. But trunk is not story. Story is at base. What makes it special? Buttress roots. Pukatea grows in waterlogged soil. Mud, silt, peat. Kind of ground that would drown most trees. To stay upright in soft, shifting mud, Pukatea has evolved massive, flaring, plank-like roots. Rise out of water like wooden fins. Buttresses spread out from base of trunk. Sometimes reaching two or three metres across. Look like flying buttresses of gothic cathedral. Stone arch translated into wood. Distribute weight of 25-metre tree over wide area. Preventing it from toppling into swamp.
Leaves are another clue. Pukatea is broadleaf tree. Not conifer. Leaves are opposite. Glossy green. Toothed along edges. Like bay tree or magnolia. Soft and leathery. Not tough like podocarps. Tree is evergreen. Holding leaves through winter. Patch of green in grey swamp. Flowers are small and inconspicuous. Pale green. Clustered. Not much to look at. But they have secret. Pukatea is pollinated by wind. Not by birds or bees. Releases clouds of pollen into air. Hoping some lands on female tree. Tree that trusts wind. Wood of Pukatea is light, soft, and straight-grained. Used for boatbuilding. For weatherboards. For frames of houses. Not strong wood. Does not have density of tōtara or
miro. But durable and easy to work. Pukatea weatherboard laid down hundred years ago is probably still there. Still straight. Still grey.
Biologically, Pukatea is specialist of edge. Grows in swamp. Reaches for light. Buttress roots hold it upright in mud. Soft leaves capture sun. Wind-blown pollen drifts across water. Tree of transition zone. Boundary between solid ground and open water. To stand in Pukatea swamp is to stand in cathedral of wooden fins. Buttress roots rise from black water like dark wings. Trunks soar into grey sky. Air is damp and still. Only sound is drip of water from leaves and call of distant bird. Place of silence and shadow. Forest that seems to belong to another world. Pukatea is not king. Not warrior. Architect of swamp. One that learned to stand in water while other trees drowned. Been here for millennia. Will be here as long as swamp remains wet. Threatened by habitat loss. Lowland swamp forests severely reduced by drainage and land clearance. Once vast swamp forests stretched across Waikato, Hauraki Plains, and Manawatu. Now most great pukatea are gone. Replaced by pasture and crops.
No one told it otherwise.