A silver ghost hovering at the reef edge. This is a fish that keeps the kelp forests alive. The
trevally has a deep, compressed body. A steep forehead and a forked tail are built for sudden acceleration. The colour is brilliant metallic silver-blue on the back. It fades to a clean white belly. When they are feeding hard, faint vertical bars appear along their sides. This is a sign of excitement. It tells other trevallies that dinner is on. A fish that signals its mood.
These fish are pack hunters with a sweet tooth. Though sweet is not quite right. They have a taste for sea urchins. Their teeth are strong and blunt. They are perfect for crushing hard shells. This makes them a valuable part of the reef ecosystem. Without
trevally, urchin populations explode. They graze the reefs bare. With them, the kelp survives. A fish that keeps the whole system in balance. The ecological role is critical. The reef depends on it.
Hook a
trevally on light tackle and the reason why anglers love them will be understood. They take line. They circle the boat. They dive under the keel. They generally make a nuisance of themselves. Stubborn, hard-fighting and determined to win. They are also one of the best smoking fish in New Zealand. The firm, oily flesh takes on smoke beautifully. It turns into a rich golden fillet that falls apart in flakes. Smoke a trevally over manuka and something special has been made. The flavour is distinct. It is worth the effort.
The Māori name
Araara refers to the sound of a flock of birds. It is a nod to the noisy, splashing schools that feed on the surface. The comparison is apt. The noise is considerable. The movement is chaotic. It draws attention from afar.
Today the
trevally is the fish of the spearfisher. The reef is clear. The trevally school flashes silver. Vertical bars appear. The spearfisher aims. The fish is taken. It will be smoked over manuka. It does not know it keeps the kelp alive. It does not know it is a balance. It just wants to eat sea urchins. Populations are stable. But the really big, old fish are becoming rare. That is what happens when everyone wants a piece. Still abundant. Still delicious. Still worth chasing.